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| Mmmm Burger |
*Despite a few more posts, I promise not to turn this into a foodie blog. If you like that sort of thing, check out A Hamburger Today, which I blame entirely for my obsession.
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A universe full of possibilities
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| Mmmm Burger |
I pulled this Razr clone from next to the dumpster. It had a loose front wheel that required tightening one bolt to fix. After I got it working I took it out for a spin. Wow, am I bad at riding it. To avoid an inevitable and grisly crash I left it on the deck and ignored it for a few months.
After spending the winter in the snow the scooter had developed a nice layer of rust.
I decided to give it to a friend's kid who didn't have a scooter. When I looked at it I realized that there was way too much rust on it for any kid to want it. Time for some rust removal.
The firs step was to disassemble the scooter. I took pictures of each area so that I would be able to put it back together later, and so I could share the experience with you.
As you can see the rust even made it inside of the handles. I found it interesting that the caps were held on with a simple knot. That was good for me, it was easy to reassemble.
These ball bearings were the worst part of the project. There was one on top and one at the bottom of the fork. Both had loose bearings. I lost one through my deck, fortunately it didn't seem to effect the performance. I had to look back at this picture twice to get it back in right.
Here are all the parts disassembled and ready to be cleaned. Apart from removing rust I wanted to take off all of the cheesy stickers. They were beat up and proof that it was a generic scooter, not good things when you are a kid.
Here are all of the small parts soaking in a bath of acetone. This did a fairly good job of cleaning off all of the dirt and grease. I used an old toothbrush to give each piece a good scrubbing.

When I was doing my CFL Teardown I mentioned that I thought the PCB would make a cool keychain. It does. I have had it on my keys for a little while now and it works quite well at helping me find my keys without getting in the way. I like the side with the components silkscreened on, most people like the green side with the traces.
To make it work as a keychain I had to widen out one of the holes to fit the key ring through. There are a ton of ways to do this, but I happened to have my Yankee Drill sitting on my counter as I was working, so I used that. Next I wanted to take off the excess solder so all the holes would be visible. I was feeling lazy so instead of using a solder sucker I just used solder wick. Once I was happy with the amount of solder I had left I put the keychain in my toaster oven to round off any sharp bits of solder that were left over. This made the board a bit discolored, but it also kept me from cutting myself when pulling my keys from my pocket.
This is going to be an ongoing project for a while. I believe that it is a 1975 Yamaha motorcycle. I don't really know many other details yet, hopefully I'll get someone much more knowledgeable than myself to take a look at it soon. Hit the read more link for more pics and a little more info about the bike.
So I threw it in the back of my car (with the help of my lovely wife), tied down the trunk with some rope and drove it back to my place.
It is going to need a lot of work. Almost all of the electrical is unhooked and there is no battery.
The seat cover was all missing but the little bit that said Yamaha on the back. The seat was soaked in dirty oil. The gas tank isn't connected to anything. The chain, brake cables and throttle are all missing.
But, when I pushed on the started the engine turned over. Yes it may yet work
This is the label, or at least most of it. The top has the numbers 3/75 on it so I'm guessing that is "THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE shoWN ABOVE" If anyone has any info or tips as I dive into this project I'd love to hear from you.
The accesory was a 120 grit flapwheel sander. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it, but right now just about everything is looking like it could use a good sanding.
Cupcake CNC 3D printer $725 basic kit $950 deluxe kit
Fireball V90 CNC router $889 basic kit $1199 deluxe assembled
Lumen Labs micRo CNC router $699 micRo Premium $999 micRo Gold
Versa Laser/Epilog ~$8000-$15,000 and up
Rep Rap No complete kits available
Fab@Home $3700 fully assembled $2750 Kit (on sale)
At work I found a hand push drill from Yankee Handyman. Unfortunately it was missing all but one drill bit, and it was bent and broken. I decided that I had to have one. I went to Rockler with my Grandpa looking for one, and it turned out that they haven't been made for a long time.
This beauty belonged to my great grand father. Both it and the drill from work were dirty and slightly rusty. So I decided to clean and oil them. First up was the work driver.
All it took to dissasemble the driver was unscrewing the threaded bit at the front of the handle. As you can see there was a spring inside and below that a wooden peg that the whole thing spins on. It was all covered in dirty oil so first I cleaned all of the grime off with rubbing alcohol and q-tips.
Next up I oiled all of the moving parts and threads, as well as the bit since it was bare metal and a little rusty.
One neat thing about this drill is the bit storage area. Too bad I don't have any bits to fill the other slots.
The threads on this driver only go in one direction. When you push it in the bit spins clockwise, on the way back out the bit spins counterclockwise. This probably explains the unique design of the drill bit.
Next up was cleaning my driver.
The shaft of this driver has threads in both directions. It can spin in either direction.
The driver had an amazing mechanism to allow it to spin in one direction, and then release freely in the other.
As you can see there was quite a bit of grime on the inside, and rust on the bits.
Getting inside this one was much harder. First I unscrewed the front like the other driver. Then I had to push in the switch on the ratcheting mechanism and slide down the silver cover. This got me into the ratchet. After removing three bits of metal the gears were loose. Next I had to unscrew the back, and then another bit that it screwed into. Even still I wasn't able to get the shaft out completely.
After a thorough cleaning and oiling both drivers look much nicer, and work better as well. It is much easier to get the bits in and out. With the gunk and rust cleaned off these fine tools are ready for many more years of use.
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